New Orleans, La. J. S. W. Harmanson; Rogers Printing Company, 1937.
Small octavo (19.5 x 14 cm.), 64 pages. Index. Illustrated. Second edition. Originally published in San Francisco in 1900 in bilingual French and English. A publisher's souvenir anthology cookbook of one hundred twenty recipes surveying Créole cookery, in part associated with legendary restaurants, and thus in some cases giving large-party quantities. A selection: Créole Gumbo, Codfish with White Beans, Daube à l'Italienne, Eggplant with Rice and Ham, Mayonnaise of Celery and Shrimps, Bisque of Crayfish, Filet de Truite, Cutlets of Catfish, Shrimp Remoulade, Sweet Potato Pudding, Pommes de Terre Soufflé, Oysters à la Nouvelle Orléans, Strawberries with Madeira Wine. Despite the title page, only pages 14-28 contain recipes by Elizabeth Kettenring (Dutreuil) Bégué (1831-1906), the proprietary chef of the famous establishment in the Vieux Carré–the second oldest restaurant in New Orleans–on the Rue de la Levée (after 1870, Decatur Street), downriver from Jackson Square and across from the French Market. The recipes are reprinted here from an earlier publication, a collaborative work written with H. M. Mayo, to which Madame Bégué appended a certification of authenticity (also reprinted here). The sections dealing explicitly with her work include: Madame Bégué's Creole Cook Book, A Breakfast at Madame Bégué's, The Story of Madame Bégué, Madame Bégué's Recipes of Créole Cookery -- Other Famous New Orleans Recipes. An immigrant from Bavaria, Bégué had opened a coffeeshop with her husband Louis Dutreuil in 1863. After his death, she married again, and with her second husband Hippolyte Bégué reopened in the same location, with the aim of serving one meal per day–a "second breakfast" beginning at 11:00 a.m.– to accommodate laborers in the meat markets and on the docks who came to work at dawn. By the mid-1880s, trade fairs held in the city were bringing tourists as well, and Bégué's became a destination of its own. Madame Bégué died in 1906. The restaurant continued under management of her daughter, but was sold in 1914 to relatives of the family Tujague, competitors on Decatur Street, a few doors away, since 1856 – remembered in these pages with Broiled Brisket à la Tujague. The work of other contributors is included as well: Victor [Béro]'s Recipes, Oyster and Fish Dishes of Distinction by Ella Bentley Arthur, and Louisiana Country Recipes by Mrs. E. W. Ott. Victor Béro (d. 1904) had been the original proprietor of the even more famous New Orleans restaurant, Galatoire's, on Bourbon Street; little is known of Mrs. Elbert Weston (Martha Estelle Leggett) Ott (1860-1955), a transplant from Mississippi whose name appears in society notices; Ella Bentley Arthur (1881-1959) was a journalist and author, originally from Orleans Parish, who worked on freelance projects out of New York. The publisher, Harmanson's was also a bookseller, offering small guides to the growing tourist trade. Chipping to foreedge; a bit of light staining at the bottom corners. In red-decorated, yellow wrappers; some general shelf wear; some running of the red ink on the front wrapper panel; adhesion mark to front panel. [OCLC locates four copies of the second edition; also nine copies without an edition statement, and eighteen copies of a third edition, all dated 1937; Brown (1st edition) 1174; Uhler, Bibliography of Louisiana Cookery 28; not in Cagle].